Surfism is a philosophy that views existence in terms that correspond to surfing. Portrayed metaphorically as a breaking wave, the mind emerges from the confluence of spatial and temporal relations. The link between reason and perception is represented by the surfboard responding to the wave as the wave responds to the reef. The relationship between the wave and the reef represents perception, where the mind apprehends its surroundings. The relationship between the surfboard and the wave represents reason, where the mind determines how to engage those surroundings. These spatio-temporal relations provide the structure for a model of the
mind, depicting the cognitive processes that influence what we 'make' of reality.
In this video, renowned surfboard shaper, Greg Webber, describes the extraordinary connection he feels when riding a surfboard of his own design. The surfboard shaper's ability to invoke the link between spatial and temporal relations validates the surfing metaphor as a tool for visualising the spatio-temporal structure of experience.
Waves carry energy like memories: the kinetic energy is stored in a chain of orbits, which taper into the depths. The orbiting particles are generated by the wind rippling the ocean surface. The more wind, the larger the wave, the deeper they reach. When the deepest orbits are compressed against the seabed, the whole chain is squeezed upward, causing the wave to break, which can be likened to memories being released in response to a stimulus. The whole surf break could represent the memory bank of experience needed to interact in society; the cultural values within which the psyche develops. But, it is problematic to include the surfer in the metaphor, because his presence amounts to placing a mind within a mind, which is not only distracting, but leads to an infinite regress of minds within minds. In any case, the spirit of the surfer is reflected in the surfboard, insofar as its design comes from the mind of the surfer who shaped it. On the other hand, placing a mind within a mind might reflect the real life confusion caused by the ego controlling one’s behaviour.
Dan Webber is one of the six Webber Bros, an Australian family of surfers, sculptors, film makers and designers, who have been making surfboards since the 1970s. Today, Webber Surfboards are known throughout the surfing world, with a reputation built on high performance, innovative designs. Dan is also part of the team that developed the Webber Wave Pool, a visionary enterprise reflecting the family’s avant-garde values and uncompromising creativity.
